Growing Tomatoes 101: Eat the Best

There’s nothing quite like biting into a ripe, juicy tomato fresh from the vine. Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or a novice gardener, growing tomatoes is an immensely rewarding experience. However, as any tomato enthusiast will tell you, cultivating a bountiful crop isn’t as straightforward as it may seem. From choosing the right varieties to mastering the art of pruning and staking, there’s a lot to learn. But fear not, dear reader, for this comprehensive guide will hold your hand every step of the way, ensuring a tomato-growing journey as fruitful as it is enjoyable. So, grab your gardening gloves and let’s get started!

Part I: Choosing the Perfect Varieties for Growing Tomatoes

With literally thousands of tomato varieties to choose from, picking the right ones for your garden can be a daunting task. But don’t worry; we’ve got your back. Here are a few factors to consider:

1. Growing Conditions: Assess your climate, soil type, and available space. Some varieties thrive in hot, humid conditions, while others prefer cooler temperatures. Compact bush types are perfect for small spaces, while vining indeterminate varieties require more room to roam.
2. Use: Are you a sauce-making maven or a die-hard BLT fan? Choose varieties accordingly. Roma and San Marzano tomatoes are excellent for sauces and canning, while beefsteak and heirloom varieties are perfect for slicing and snacking.
3. Growth Habit: Determinate (bush) varieties produce a crop all at once, while indeterminate (vining) types bear fruit continuously until the first frost. If you want a steady supply throughout the season, go for indeterminate types.
4. Disease Resistance: Nobody likes a sick tomato plant. Look for varieties labeled with V, F, N, or T, indicating resistance to common diseases like Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt, Nematodes, and Tobacco mosaic virus.

Popular tomato plant varieties and additional details

Variety	Type	Size	Colour	Growth Habit	Days to Maturity	Disease Resistance	Flavor Notes
Better Boy	Slicer	Large	Red	Indeterminate	75	VFN	Rich, classic tomato taste
Early Girl	Slicer	Medium	Red	Indeterminate	62	VFF	Sweet, tangy
Roma	Paste	Small	Red	Determinate	78	VF	Meaty, low-moisture
San Marzano	Paste	Small	Red	Indeterminate	80	–	Rich, earthy, low acidity
Brandywine	Heirloom	Large	Red	Indeterminate	85	–	Complex, slightly spicy
Cherokee Purple	Heirloom	Large	Purple/Brown	Indeterminate	80	–	Sweet, smoky, tropical notes
Mortgage Lifter	Heirloom	Large	Pink	Indeterminate	85	–	Meaty, sweet-tart
Sungold	Cherry	Small	Orange	Indeterminate	65	V, FT	Sweet, tangy, and fruity
Sweet Million	Cherry	Small	Red	Indeterminate	60	F	Sweet, high sugar content
Juliet	Grape	Small	Red	Indeterminate	60	V, FF, N	Sweet, firm texture
Big Beef	Slicer	Large	Red	Indeterminate	75	N	Meaty, excellent for slicing
Celebrity	Slicer	Large	Red	Semi-Determinate	72	V, FF, N, T	Sweet, low-acid

Disease Resistance Key:
V = Verticillium Wilt
F = Fusarium Wilt N = Nematodes
T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus

Pro Tip: Don’t be afraid to experiment! Growing a mix of different varieties not only adds visual interest to your garden but also ensures a diverse harvest for all your culinary needs.

Part II: Starting from Seed or Transplants

To seed or not to seed, that is the question. Both methods have their pros and cons, so let’s break it down:

Starting from Seed:

Pros: Wider variety selection; cost-effective; rewarding experience.

Cons: Longer growing period requires more effort and attention.

If you’ve got a green thumb and the patience of a saint, starting from seed is a great option. It allows you to grow rare or heirloom varieties that are not readily available as transplants. Plus, there’s something deeply satisfying about nurturing a tiny seed into a robust plant.

Transplants:

Pros: faster growth, easier for beginners, wider availability.

Cons: limited variety selection; potential transplant shock.

For those short on time or gardening experience, transplants offer a solid head start. Simply pop them in the ground and watch them flourish (hopefully). Just be gentle during transplanting to minimize stress on the young plants.

No matter which route you choose, be sure to follow the recommended planting times for your region. Tomatoes are warm-weather lovers and won’t thank you for an early, chilly start.

Part III: Preparing the Perfect Tomato Bed

Great tomatoes start with great soil. Think of it as a five-star hotel for your plants; they’ll thrive when pampered with the right amenities. Here’s how to create the ultimate tomato bed:

1. Sunshine, Please: Tomatoes are sun-worshippers, requiring at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Position your bed accordingly, and be prepared to provide some afternoon shade in scorching climates.
2. Well-Drained Soil: Tomatoes hate wet feet (don’t we all?). Amend your soil with compost or aged manure to improve drainage and nutrient content. Raised beds are a great option if you’re dealing with heavy clay soil.
3. Crop Rotation: Like any good guest, tomatoes appreciate a change of scenery. Rotate their location each year to prevent soil-borne diseases and pests from taking up permanent residence.
4. Mulch: A 2-3-inch layer of organic mulch (e.g., straw, leaves, or bark) helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, ensuring your tomatoes don’t have to compete for resources.

Pro Tip: If you’re short on space or dealing with poor soil conditions, consider growing your tomatoes in large containers or raised beds filled with a high-quality potting mix.

Part IV: Planting and Spacing

Now that your tomato bed is ready, it’s time to get those plants in the ground. But wait, don’t just plop them in willy-nilly! Proper planting techniques and spacing are crucial for a bountiful harvest.

Follow these steps for transplanting tomatoes into the garden:

First, you’ll want to dig a planting hole, but make it twice as wide as the rootball of your tomato transplant. This allows the roots to spread out easily once planted. However, don’t dig the hole any deeper than the rootball itself. Tomatoes can develop issues if planted too deeply.

Next, take a look at the lowest leaves on the transplant stem. Any leaves that would end up buried underground should be removed. If left on, these lower leaves can rot and introduce diseases into the plant once they are in the soil.

Now it’s time to actually plant the tomato. Rather than just plopping it in at the same soil level as the nursery pot, you’ll want to bury the stem quite a bit deeper. The plant can be planted with just the top few leaves exposed above the soil line. This extra stem burial allows the plant to develop additional stem roots, creating a stronger overall root system.

Finally, spacing is important to allow for adequate air flow and prevent overcrowding between plants. For determinate or bush varieties that stay compact, space transplants 2-3 feet apart in the garden row. But for indeterminate vine types, allow 3–4 feet between each transplant to accommodate their larger size.

Following these planting depth and spacing guidelines helps tomato transplants get established with a robust root system right from the start. It sets them up for vigor and productivity throughout the growing season. A little extra care at planting time pays off big, with increased yields later on.

For Seeds:

• Sow seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and 1-2 inches apart.
• Once seedlings emerge, thin them to 12–24 inches apart, depending on the variety.

Remember, proper spacing ensures good air circulation and prevents overcrowding, which can lead to disease and reduced yields.

Part V: Staking, Caging, and Pruning

As your tomato plants start to grow, they’ll need some structural support. Think of it as a personal trainer for your vines, keeping them in shape and maximizing productivity.

Staking: Drive sturdy wooden or metal stakes into the ground near each plant, then loosely tie the main stem to the stake using soft plant ties or strips of cloth. This method works best for indeterminate varieties.

Caging: For determinate or bush types, tomato cages provide excellent support while allowing easy access for harvesting. Look for sturdy cages made of concrete reinforcing wire or heavy-duty plastic.

Pruning: Indeterminate varieties benefit from regular pruning, which improves air circulation and focuses the plant’s energy on fruit production. Remove any suckers (side shoots) that develop in the crotches between the main stem and branches.

Pro Tip: Get creative with your support system! Repurpose old wooden ladders, cattle panels, or even build your own unique tomato tower. Just make sure it’s sturdy enough to handle the weight of your plants and fruit.

Part VI: Watering and Fertilizing

Tomatoes are thirsty plants, but they don’t appreciate being waterlogged. Strike the right balance by following these simple guidelines:

Watering:

• Water deeply, applying 1-2 inches of water per week (more in hot, dry conditions).
• Focus on the root zone, avoiding wetting the leaves, to prevent fungal diseases.
• Use mulch to retain moisture and reduce evaporation.
• Consider installing a drip irrigation system for consistent, efficient watering.

Fertilizing:

• Feed your plants with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer formulated for vegetables.
• Supplement with calcium nitrate or other calcium sources to prevent blossom-end rot.
• Apply fertilizer according to package directions, being careful not to over-fertilize.

Pro Tip: For a fun and eco-friendly fertilizer option, try brewing your own compost tea from nutrient-rich compost. Your tomatoes will thank you for the organic boost!

Part VII: Pest and Disease Management

Even the most well-pampered tomato plants can fall victim to pests and diseases. But fear not; with some vigilance and a few tricks up your sleeve, you can keep your crop healthy and thriving.

Common Pests:

• Aphids: These tiny suckers can quickly infest your plants. Control them with a strong blast of water or insecticidal soap.

• Tomato hornworms: These voracious caterpillars can strip a plant bare in no time. Hand-pick them off or use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) as an organic control.
• Cutworms: These sneaky pests lurk at the base of plants, severing stems. Protect young plants with collars or surround them with diatomaceous earth.

Common Diseases:

• Early Blight and Late Blight: These fungal diseases can quickly spread, causing brown spots and wilting. Practice crop rotation, remove infected plants, and use copper-based fungicides if necessary.
• Verticillium and Fusarium Wilts: These soil-borne fungal diseases cause yellowing, wilting, and eventual plant death. Choose resistant varieties and practice proper crop rotation.
• Blossom End Rot: This condition causes a leathery brown patch on the bottom of fruits, resulting from calcium deficiency. Maintain consistent soil moisture and apply calcium supplements.

Prevention is key when it comes to pests and diseases. Always start with disease-free seeds or transplants, and maintain good garden hygiene by removing and destroying any infected plant material.

Pro Tip: Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps to take up residence in your garden. These hard-working predators will help keep pest populations in check naturally.

Part VIII: Harvesting and Storage

You’ve nurtured your tomato plants through every stage, and now it’s time to reap the rewards of your hard work—a bountiful harvest of delicious, sun-ripened tomatoes!

When to Harvest:

• For the best flavor, allow tomatoes to ripen fully on the vine. They should be slightly soft when gently squeezed.
• If frost is in the forecast, harvest any remaining green tomatoes before the cold sets in.

Harvesting Tips:

• Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to snip tomatoes from the vine, leaving a small portion of the stem attached.
• Handle tomatoes carefully to avoid bruising or damaging the skin.
• Harvest in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in.

Storage:

• Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes, as this can cause them to lose flavor and become mealy.
• Store ripe tomatoes at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, and use within a few days.
• Green tomatoes can be stored in a cool, dark place for several weeks and will continue to ripen.

Pro Tip: Extend your tomato season by bringing a few potted plants indoors before the first frost. Place them in a sunny spot, and enjoy fresh tomatoes for weeks longer!

Part IX: Tomato Troubleshooting

Even the most experienced tomato growers can encounter challenges from time to time. Here are some common issues and their solutions:

1. Blossom Drop: If your plants are laden with flowers but no fruit, the culprit is likely extreme temperatures, drought stress, or lack of pollination. Improve air circulation, maintain consistent moisture, and encourage bee activity by planting pollinator-friendly flowers nearby.
2. Cracking or Splitting: Fluctuations in soil moisture can cause tomatoes to crack or split as they grow. Maintain consistent soil moisture and apply mulch to prevent rapid drying.
3. Catfacing: This condition, where tomatoes develop irregular, distorted shapes, is usually caused by cool temperatures during flowering or exposure to growth-regulating chemicals. Choose heat-tolerant varieties, and avoid using herbicides or pesticides near your plants.
4. Leaf Roll: If the leaves of your tomato plants are rolling inward or upward, it could be a sign of physiological stress from excessive heat, drought, or root damage. Improve irrigation, apply mulch, and avoid cultivating too close to the plants.
5. Failure to Ripen: If your tomatoes stubbornly refuse to turn red, it could be due to cool temperatures, lack of sunlight, or excessive nitrogen fertilization. Choose varieties suited to your climate, ensure adequate sunlight exposure, and adjust fertilization accordingly.

Pro Tip: Keep a gardening journal to track your tomato-growing journey. Note down varieties planted, weather conditions, pest or disease issues, and any other relevant information. This will help you identify patterns and make informed decisions for next year’s crop.

Part X: Tomato Recipes and Preservation

With a bountiful tomato harvest at your fingertips, it’s time to get creative in the kitchen! Tomatoes are incredibly versatile, lending themselves to a wide range of dishes, from fresh salads and sauces to jams and chutneys.

Here are a few mouth-watering recipe ideas to try:

• Caprese Salad: Layer slices of fresh tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and basil leaves. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and olive oil for a simple yet delicious summer treat.
• Homemade Salsa: Fire-roasted tomatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro, and a kick of jalapeno make for an irresistible salsa perfect for dipping or topping tacos and enchiladas.
• Slow-Roasted Tomatoes: Toss cherry or grape tomatoes with olive oil, garlic, and herbs, then roast at a low temperature until concentrated and slightly caramelized. Delicious on bruschetta or tossed with pasta.
• Tomato Jam: Who says jam has to be sweet? Combine tomatoes, sugar, vinegar, and spices for a tangy, versatile spread perfect for cheese boards or as a glaze for meats.

If you find yourself with an overabundance of tomatoes, consider preserving them for year-round enjoyment. Canning, freezing, and dehydrating are all excellent methods for extending the shelf life of your harvest.

Pro Tip: For a taste of summer in the depths of winter, try making and canning your own tomato sauce or salsa. The fresh, vibrant flavors will transport you right back to your sun-drenched garden.

Part XI: Tomato Growing Tips from the Pros

To wrap up this comprehensive guide, we’ve compiled some expert tips and tricks from seasoned tomato growers:

1. Epsom Salt: Magnesium sulfate, commonly known as Epsom salt, can improve tomato plant health and fruit production. Add a tablespoon of Epsom salt to the soil around each plant when first setting them out and again when the plants begin flowering.
2. Companion Planting: Certain plants make excellent companions for tomatoes, helping to repel pests, improve growth, or provide other benefits. Try planting marigolds, basil, borage, or carrots alongside your tomatoes.
3. Pinching Suckers: For indeterminate varieties, pinching off the suckers (small side shoots) that form in the crotches between the main stem and branches can improve air circulation and focus the plant’s energy on fruit production.
4. Remove Leaves: As your tomato plants mature, remove any leaves that are yellowing or shading the developing fruit clusters. This increases sunlight exposure and improves air circulation, reducing the risk of diseases.
5. Consistent Moisture: Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture levels in the soil. Fluctuations between wet and dry conditions can lead to issues like cracking, blossom end rot, and even split stems. Use mulch and maintain a regular watering schedule.
6. Rotate Crops: To prevent soil-borne diseases from taking hold, rotate the location of your tomato plants each year, avoiding planting them in the same spot more than once every three to four years.
7. Save Seeds: If you grow an open-pollinated heirloom variety that you love, consider saving some seeds for next year’s crop. Properly dried and stored, tomato seeds can remain viable for several years.

With these expert tips and the comprehensive knowledge you’ve gained from this guide, you’re well on your way to becoming a tomato-growing master. So, get out there, get your hands dirty, and enjoy the unparalleled satisfaction of harvesting and savoring your very own homegrown tomatoes!

Frequently asked questions about growing tomatoes